Tena Tena is a tented camp, rather like Kakuli, and although there is running hot and cold water provided in the bathrooms attached to each hut, the bush tradition of supplying a fresh bowl of hot water on a stand outside the tent, first thing in the morning, is still adhered to, and it seemed only polite to make use of this for a wet shave out in the open.

We then headed out on the next stage of our trip, leaving South Luangwa for its sister park of North Luangwa. Although it is possible to fly direct from South Luangwa to North Luangwa, we were going by road, since we had arranged to look into a series of ‘ItsWild’ () bush camps lying outside the north park itself, which had recently been set up as part of a local community project, run entirely by local people.   

Owned in partnership between the local community and the rural enterprise company, Community Markets for Conservation (COMACO), these bush camps were designed to offer a readily affordable alternative to the usual run of bush camps, which, by their nature, tend to lie at the top end of the cost spectrum: Further Information.

We therefore returned to Mfuwe, meeting up with COMACO’s Charles Ngoma, and from where we transferred to his 4WD vehicle, for the long drive up north. Before heading north we made a small detour to the COMACO centre where they make flour/rice/honey/peanut butter from local farm produce (). They also teach pottery, bee keeping and vegetable production to the local community.

The drive to reach Mwanya Bush Camp, passing numerous native villages along the way (), then took over 4 hours, over an absolutely awful track with temperatures between 30-35 degrees C. On arrival we were warmly welcomed into camp, and, although, as anticipated, the camp itself () was very basic, it was quite comfortable (), with marvellously situated outside dining (), although not matched by the actual food supplied.

Part of the reason for undertaking the trip in this way was to assess the suitability of travelling for hours on unmade roads so far as international visitors might be concerned. Sadly the conclusion was that it just wasn't going to work.

The whole project never really got off the ground anyway, and our various subsequent enquiries regarding availability simply went unanswered, and the 'ItsWild' office in Mfuwe airport was found to be closed and abandoned on a later visit.

We actually met the director of COMACO during our stay in Mwanya, and got on really well with him, but enquiries sent directly to him were also disregarded. This was all very disappointing, since we had really wanted to see the project succeed.

One tale we were told that evening concerned an American billionaire, with a very chilling personality, who reportedly had constructed a large hangar back home to host his many hunting trophies. Apparently there were two spaces left unfilled on its walls, and on being asked what was planned for these he replied "his two ex-wives".

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